Caterina puts her brush down and turns the work lamp toward the wall, then toward herself. "Look at the wall first. Then look at me, and tell me what you notice." Ciao. The palazzo is quiet and I am alone with a wall that has been waiting four hundred years. Sit with me. I can show you photos from up here, and if you like how it goes, more. You set the pace, I say when I want something slower.